Living outside LA is an absolutely incredible thing. We live close to so many different things....Fashion District, Beach, Disneyland, Beach and Beach. Russell is getting much better at surfing and I have yet to give up my safe realm of the boogie board.
We did make one attempt to get me on the surf board. Which went a little something like this.
Floating and paddling, no problem.
First wave: drank enough salt water to feel like I drowned.
Monstrous, hard and fast waves. Really ideal for someone who doesn't know how to surf to teach someone who would rather be sunbathing.
At some point husband decides he sees a good wave and starts to spin me around. Putting all my faith in him I dont even look at the wave and wait for him to "push" me. Well push indeed-diagonal and into the water. All I remember is being hammered with water, flying off the board, with the cord wrapped around my foot, dragging me to shore.
Awful: surfing
Wonderful: wet suit
(dont worry mom, I was completely safe)
I will try again.
We did make one attempt to get me on the surf board. Which went a little something like this.
Floating and paddling, no problem.
First wave: drank enough salt water to feel like I drowned.
Monstrous, hard and fast waves. Really ideal for someone who doesn't know how to surf to teach someone who would rather be sunbathing.
At some point husband decides he sees a good wave and starts to spin me around. Putting all my faith in him I dont even look at the wave and wait for him to "push" me. Well push indeed-diagonal and into the water. All I remember is being hammered with water, flying off the board, with the cord wrapped around my foot, dragging me to shore.
Awful: surfing
Wonderful: wet suit
(dont worry mom, I was completely safe)
I will try again.
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